Splendours of Cuba (Oriente Departure) – 14 nights – tour operator Cox & Kings

Havana – Las Terrazas – Cienfuegos – Trinidad – Camaguey – Santiago de Cuba – Sancti Spiritus – Havana

We departed a week after Cuba had a complete failure of the national power grid for 3 days. As you can imagine this was a bit concerning and we contacted Cox & Kings to check what the situation was. They decided to make a change so that we would not be staying in any Casa Particulars (small privately run guesthouses) as these would not have any generators for back up. They were also able to advise that the food and water supply in hotels was unaffected.

The best time to go is from November to April when the temperature and humidity are more pleasant and its reasonably dry. Our departure at the end of October was the 1st tour of the season for this trip. The flight is not direct from the UK, originally it was meant to be out of Madrid, but the timetable was changed and no longer lined up with the tour so we were swapped to Paris instead. You need a Visa to enter Cuba. Cox & Kings had provided details of where to get one but this was for a paper one. Because of this we weren’t fully able to check in online as they need to see it. It is possible to get a Visa online so I recommend you do this. They also needed evidence of accommodation for the whole of your stay so you will need to upload the entire itinerary. You also need to complete the API for which you will be given an QR code.

The flight

I haven’t done a transit flight before but it all worked pretty smoothly. Its a 10.5 hour flight but went surprisingly quickly. The airport in Havana is pretty small and the security checks felt a little makeshift, but no less rigorous than anywhere else. Next to the baggage reclaim was a small desk to exchange money which Cox & Kings had suggested using but there was no one there. There is also a desk where you can get a Sim if you want one. Data roaming didn’t seem to be a good option, some others on the tour had bought a package but each morning it said it had already been used. Wifi in Havana is fairly dependable but once you get into the country its more of an issue. As we walked to the green channel a lady insisted on checking the labels on our bags before we could walk through, but then there were just doors straight to the outside where our guide was waiting.

These tours are for smaller groups but we were surprised when we were taken to the bus where there were only 3 others waiting. 2 more were due to come in on another flight but for some reason they never showed. This did make for a really intimate experience and fortunately we all got on well. We transferred over to our hotel in Havana. By the time we checked in it was 9pm local time and having had an early start we called time.

Havana

General Info

The hotel we stayed at was The Royalton Habana Paseo del Prado. Built by Canadians but part owned with the Cuban state – 51% to Cuba of course, which is common practise for any foreign investor. On the surface things look as you would expect, but being Cuba on deeper inspection you may find some gaps in the way everything works. One of our group didn’t have hot water in their room but after reporting it, it was resolved. Breakfast was laid out in the fashion you would expect of a 4 star plus hotel with a chef making fresh omelettes and pancakes. Look inside a few pots and you start to spot some more unusual items like chickpeas on offer rather than baked beans, cooked meat dishes that seemed more like dinner dishes. You will also find the same ingredients popping up served in a different manner. Getting variety in Cuba is difficult and expensive. I’m more of a tea drinker than coffee, and soon discovered the Cubans don’t really do tea. If you get proper black tea its unlikely to come with milk – even if you’ve asked for it. You will likely be given mint tea or camomile without being asked, I learned to just go with it.

We were able to change money at the hotel as it had a bureau de change. The official rate is set by the government and not especially favourable around 110 CUP to the Dollar at the time of writing. Our guide did suggest to only change about $50 worth and see how we got on. To be honest I almost think we didn’t need to change money at all, everyone really wanted Dollars or Euros. They treat them as equal when giving you a bill so for us the Dollar was the better exchange rate so we used those. We had brought a mixture of cash as it wasn’t clear from the information we had been given as to what we really needed. They will take sterling, but as there are not that many brits going it’s not so favourable for them. Get the smallest notes you can i.e. $1 notes if possible. They will also take Euro coins as there is always some tourist they can ask to change them back into notes. The black market will offer 300 CUP to the Dollar so this is the exchange rate that will be used in shops and restaurants so bear that in mind. We were told that hotels would only accept credit cards which they did in Havana, but of course this needs Wi-Fi to be able to work. As we got further into the country the electricity was unreliable and therefore no Wi-Fi, so don’t think you will be making most of your payments using this as it’s not really that practical.

Day 1 – Monday

We were picked up and taken by coach into the old town. Because it was the 28^th of October it was the anniversary of Camilo Cienfuegos, Fidel Castro’s right-hand man, going ‘missing’ in an airplane crash. (There have been suggestions that he was in fact killed by Castro). It’s a tradition to walk to the water and throw flowers upon it, so this meant there were going to be road closures. To avoid this, we went up to Revolution Square first which had extra bunting out for the occasion as there was to be a big gathering there later on.

We were supposed to go to the Rum factory but it’s closed on a Monday so instead we went to a shop where we did some tasting. For me it’s a bit strong neat. Next door was the theatre which had a cafe so the guide suggested we could go in there for a flaming coffee if we liked. We gave it a go and it was really rather good. The rum was the flaming part and there was cinnamon added on the top of the coffee.

We then went to a market place down by the water front. Be prepared to be invited to look at everything at every stall (even though you just said No to the other stalls selling exactly the same thing) and you will need to haggle, they will ask you for a ridiculous price. This is not a wealthy country so we took the attitude that we should try to support the community and bought a couple of things.

We were then taken for a walk through the old town. The guide felt we should see all aspects of Havana so took us through some less celebrous streets and explained about the rationing of basic items and that there were always queues outside these shops. There were other shops offering more interesting food items but these would only accept Dollars/Euros – which is why everyone is so keen to be paid in these currencies. By Cuban standards these items are also a lot more expensive to buy. Following the communist principles everyone is supposed to get the same pay of roughly the equivalent of $45 to $50 dollars a month. The basic items are subsidised, but you can see that those wages aren’t going to go very far. Everyone is looking for an opportunity to make a little extra so it’s really important to make sure you tip for any services.

We then progressed into the more well-known section of historic Havana with many beautiful Squares with historic Spanish buildings and cathedrals. Do be prepared to be harangued a bit by people trying to persuade you to part with your money, either selling things, busking or inviting you to their restaurant. As you are with a guide it won’t be too bad but if you wander off a bit you will be more vulnerable.

Lunch was included so we were taken to the rooftop restaurant La Moneda Cubana not too far from the Catedral San Cristobal. This was our first introduction to traditional Cuban food. We were offered soup for a starter, the option of grilled chicken, fish or pork served with yellow rice and veg for main and some papaya in syrup for dessert. We were also offered the choice of a Cuba Libre, Beer, coke or water. It gave us a lovely view across to the other side of the bay and made a very pleasant first proper dining experience in Cuba.

Note – Water from the tap is not drinkable without boiling first so we were given a 500ml bottle each, every day on the coach and sometimes there was water in the hotel room as well.

After lunch we went to do the highlight of the trip to Havana, a ride in an American vintage car. As we were such a small group, we only needed 2 cars. There was something about driving around in the convertible that reminded me of my childhood. It eventually dawned on me it was it was the delightful smell of leaded petrol fumes that were ringing bells. Cuba does have its own source of oil but it’s not very good quality and needs a lot of refining, and I’m assuming they haven’t bothered with the niceties of removing the lead.

We drove through the tunnel to the other side where we went up to the statue of Jesus and looked back to Havana. We stopped at the San Carlos del La Cabana Fortress as well. We came back across and then drove into the modern part of Havana passed some impressive private mansions and embassy buildings. It was a lovely way to see round the city and I was surprised by how long the trip lasted. We finished by parking up close to the El Floridita bar much favoured by Ernest Hemmingway where of course we had a Daiquiri (also included). There was a group playing music which was very enjoyable (5 songs and the basket will come round – this is why you need the small notes). We then returned to the hotel.

Having freshened up we went to the rooftop bar at the hotel which gave a lovely view of the sunset. We were still a bit jetlagged so decided to eat in the hotel restaurant rather than traipse about. It wasn’t the busiest, well one other table of diners, I guess there’s too much competition, but it was pleasant enough if a little pricey. If you’ve got the energy, its probably better to go out.

Las Terazzas

General Info

We were picked up around 9am to make the drive over to Las Terrazas. Having made it out of Havana we got onto the Autopista. This may sound like a motorway and it has 2 to 3 lanes as you might expect, but it’s not like any motorway I’ve been on. The surface is pretty poor with lots of pot holes so you will find that the driver weaves between the lanes in order to avoid them. Fortunately, the roads are nothing like as busy as home so it’s not as risky as it sounds. It’s quite common to see people at the roadside looking for lifts. The coach isn’t allowed to pick anyone up, but plenty of cars do and it’s a system that seems to work. You are expected to make a contribution so its advantageous to give a lift. The further into the rural countryside you go the more you will see horse and carts, – yes, even on the motorway. They do stick to the edge of the road so it doesn’t cause a problem, but feels bizarre.

Day 2 – Tuesday

After 1.5 hours we arrived at the biosphere. The guide had to get us checked in as they are keen to control the number of visitors to the area, and we then headed into the village. We made a stop at a café on the lakeside for – yes more rum, in the form of a Cuba Libre. Not what I would normally do mid-morning but when in Cuba… We then went to visit the former coffee plantation. This area had previously grown lots of coffee and was involved in the slave trade as they were used to do all the hard work. Our guide explained all the processes and the lifestyle of the people who lived there at the time. We then headed back into the village and had a walk through the community as the guide explained how it had come into being.

We were then taken to a local restaurant (very much set up for tourists) where it felt like dishes of everything appeared on the table for us to share. A mound of rice and black beans, fried plantain, sweet potato, lots of grilled meat, beetroot, lettuce (bit firmer than we would have), courgette, cucumber, bread – far too much for us to eat. Given that it’s so hard for locals to get food it did feel rather indulgent and we felt a bit guilty. There was also some dessert which was like a caramel custard. Fortunately, a more manageable portion that was just a nice sweet treat. Again, a drink was included.

I was reminded of holidays of old to Greece when using the toilets. There was a lady on the door who was responsible for keeping the toilets clean(ish) so she would hand out toilet paper for a fee (this is where you need the small notes again). In general, the toilets outside of hotels were a bit interesting, there might be soap, there might be flushes on the toilets, there might be running water in the taps – or possibly not. There were days when I wondered what we’d paid for. If these were an internal room then during the day you could be in darkness as well if the electricity was down (which it invariably was).

We drove back into the village to a café where we could buy a coffee, and admire the view. There was a zip line going past which we were offered the chance to do but we all politely declined. The itinerary suggested we were just having a half day trip but we then went over to some nearby waterfalls where we could go for a swim. The water was beautifully clear and not too cold. Afterwards we came back to the Hotel La Moka to check in. This was our first experience on electricity issues. Although hotels have generators, they will tend to not use them in the day as there is enough light, and cooking is done by gas. However, even if they have put the generator on there will be no Wi-Fi. They need to take your passports and register the details on a website and get you a code for the Wi-Fi none of which they could do. We did get into our rooms but we couldn’t get the safe to work. Someone came to look at it but it needed a new battery which they didn’t have. A bit annoying but this is how it is.

We went for a drink in the bar in the hotel. The bar and reception area were open to the outside and we sat with some lovely views enjoying our drinks. Dinner wasn’t included but there wasn’t really anywhere else to eat so we ate in the hotel dining room. They were offering …. Yes, you guessed it, rice, grilled meat and veg. A group of musicians arrived to keep us and another tour group entertained (5 songs and the basket goes round). They were very good though.

Day 3 – Wednesday

Breakfast was a bit interesting. We were given a plate with little sections in it with things like cheese, ham, peanuts and the papaya in syrup in them, then an ‘omelette’ appeared. There was only coffee or cola (yes really) on offer to drink.

We were picked up around 9am and headed off to the Vinales Valley. The roads were now a lot narrower and were even more potholed that before. There were a lot more horse and carts and horse riders on the road so a tricky job for the driver. There was more farming going on here that we had seen previously. Some of the tractors were of the ancient type that I had as a toy as a child. There were even some oxen ploughing in the fields. We stopped at a tobacco farm where we were shown the process of growing and processing the tobacco leaves to make cigars. I was surprised how involved the process was and how much is done by hand. We were offered the chance to smoke a cigar but I passed on that, but I did pose with it. They had a small bar with a sugar cane press so I decided to give that a go. Needless to say, sugar cane grows really well in Cuba hence the Rum. I was surprised how pleasant it was, not as sweet as I was expecting.

We were taken into the village to a restaurant that had a fantastic view of the valley. Lunch was included and again we were given platters of food to share. Some soup for starters and lovely vegetables as well as the usual rice and fried meats, and a small rice pudding to finish. We were also given an alcohol free pina colada, but then they brought the bottle of rum to the table for us to help ourselves.

After lunch we went to visit the Indian cave. One of our party was not comfortable in confined spaces so there was a big discussion on how tight it got. After having been through I would say if you have issues of this kind don’t go in, you do need to watch yourself a bit as its quite narrow with bits that stick out and there is one section where you need to bend right over to get through. We picked up a boat inside which showed us round some of the features of the cave. Like most of these things you need a little imagination. (don’t forget to tip the skipper). We returned to Vinales where we had a little time for a wander. We then went up to a view point to look down on the valley and admire the mountains.

We had been asked earlier if we would like to go bird watching with a local expert on our return, which we agreed we would like to do. We headed back where the guide was waiting. He had spotted a Cuban Trogon, the national bird, in the bushes nearby. He was delighted to have found this as its quite a shy creature. He took us through the village pointing out the local birds. There had been a horned owl spotted in the woods the previous day that he was keen to find again, but unfortunately it proved to be elusive. On the way back we saw something strange at one of the houses which he explained was a local artist who made his own paper taking detritus from the lake and letting it dry. He kindly asked the man to open his shop and we bought some cards and notepads.

Cienfuegos

Day 4 – Thursday

After breakfast we headed off on one of our longer travels. Back onto the Autopista, we headed back to Havana as we needed to pick up petrol. It can take some time to queue at the petrol station so we were dropped off at a golf course where we had a coffee stop. One of our party was a keen golfer so investigated how much it cost to be a member – $80, a steal. The driver didn’t have to wait for too long so we were soon heading back onto the Autopista in the opposite direction. The road this way was even quieter, and it wasn’t long before we turned off in the direction of Australia (it’s the name of a village) and onto the Peninsula de Zapata. We arrived at the national park where we were able to have a boat ride and a visit a reserve with some crocodiles. We had lunch first which was included – the usual stuff. We then took a boat ride through the mangroves to an island that had a display of how the original inhabitants had lived. We then went into the reserve where we could see Crocodiles of various ages. There was a large group sitting on the edge of the water, piled up on top of each other barely moving. You could think they were statues looking at them.

We then got back on the bus and headed towards the Bay of Pigs. On the way we stopped at the garden of a man who encouraged Hummingbirds into his garden which allowed us to get a close up look at these beautiful creatures (don’t forget to tip). Having arrived at the Bay of Pigs we stopped at the museum where we watched a historic piece of film about the invasion in 1961. We then headed off towards Cienfuegos. Working our way down the narrow streets we arrived at the Hotel Melia San Carlos which was a 1920s building. Again, we had to leave the passports and wait for Wi-Fi codes. Our rooms were through the back of the hotel to an inner courtyard. Unfortunately, the generator must have been located nearby and this space ended up smelling a bit fumy after it had been running for a while. We managed to get our passports back and get the Wi-Fi which only really worked in the lobby area – until it went again. Make sure you get the important messages out first and let your loved ones know you’re still alive, you never know how long it’s going to work. Dinner was included at the rooftop restaurant. The guide advised that it was a buffet and suggested we didn’t leave it too late before the gannets appeared. It was all laid out nicely but was fundamentally the same stuff. At least we had the option to control how much food we took and avoid those we didn’t care for. We did discover that there is not a lot of understanding of wine as the red wine had been chilled. This was something that was repeated in other Melia Hotels that we stayed at.

Day 5 – Friday

After a buffet breakfast (cheese, ham, cooked meats, pastries, eggs – oh and tinned peaches and tinned mushrooms) we went on a walking tour of Cienfuegos. Lots of historic buildings to be admired. One of the main attractions is the Tomas Terry Theatre. Whilst initially it looks like many of the historic theatres in London there were some interesting differences like the boxes in the circle having shutters on the back wall to allow the breeze through. The theatre is heavily subsidised in Cuba to make it available to everyone. We had some free time to explore so we headed down to the waterfront. We walked past a market so of course much haranguing. One of our group was interested in T-shirts so we stood back and let her take the flak.

We were picked up again and headed off to the Botanical Gardens. The local guide explained that with fuel shortages they weren’t able to use the power tools that they needed to keep the weeds down and there weren’t enough of them to be able to do it with machetes. He was genuinely disappointed that they couldn’t keep the garden the way it should be, and was concerned this could cause health issues to the plants. There were many different trees and bushes to be admired including one that had long trailing vines that we were allowed to have a go at playing Tarzan on to show their strength.

From there we carried on towards Trinidad. Lunch wasn’t included but the guide suggested a roadside restaurant that would offer a mixture of foods. It was a simple but lovely palm clad roof construction open on all sides. They would do sandwiches as well as the usual rice dishes but the guide recommended giving the ropa vieja a go – the traditional dish of slow cooked beef served with rice and fried plantain with veg. Although it was roadside there wasn’t much traffic and it was really enjoyable.

Trinidad

On the way into Trinidad we called in at a local pottery artist. There were some really nice pieces and I could have been tempted but I couldn’t see how I would get them home without breaking them. We then went to check into our hotel. This is where we should have been staying at Casa particulars but Cox & Kings had said we would either be at Hotel E La Ronda or Hotel E La Calesa. We arrived at the latter but as the guide tried to get us checked in there seemed to be an issue. It appeared that they didn’t have rooms for us and we were to go to another hotel. She was rather annoyed at this as she felt it wasn’t very professional that she had not been informed. As we drew up outside the Royalton Mystique Trinidad La Popa, we on the other hand felt like we had lucked out. It had an amazing location at the top of the hill looking over Trinidad. It also had a lovely swimming pool which we were eyeing up.

That evening our dinner was included in a local paladar, Taberna Barraco. The guide walked us down the steep path from the hotel into the town. Street lighting in not a big thing and we were glad of the small torches we had brought to help see our way across the cobbled streets (also useful for power cuts). We went upstairs to the rooftop part of the restaurant. Whilst the food was pretty much the same, they did try their best to make it feel special. There was the inevitable wobble of the electrics but the generator quickly kicked in.

Day 6 – Saturday

Breakfast was a buffet style and there were some interesting little squares of what tasted a bit like sticky toffee pudding which I enjoyed. We were picked up by the guide and walked back down the hill into the town. It looked a bit different in the daylight. It felt like we had walked into a living museum. We walked around admiring the architecture and then went into the Museo de Arquitectura Colonial. The building had originally belonged to a sugar magnate and now houses many examples of the colonial architecture including doors and ironwork. There were some surprising features including a 19th century shower. We then went to Taberna La Canchanchara to have the speciality drink made from Aguardiente – a strong spirit, Honey, Lemon, water and ice served in a special pottery cup. You need to keep stirring it so the honey doesn’t sink to the bottom. It was quite nice but once was enough for me. We were serenaded again (5 songs …) and then continued on our way.

We went to the bell tower where we were invited to climb to the top. I have to point out that the banister felt a bit wobbly and when we got to the top section it had been closed off. We did get some great views though. Back downstairs there was a truck and a boat in the courtyard that had been used as part of the revolution.

Lunch was included at a local restaurant with the usual suspects making an appearance. Another group appeared with the usual 5 songs (Guantanamera was beginning to wear a bit thin). I had spotted a recommendation in my DK Eyewitness book for a tapas restaurant called Munoz Tapas that we thought would be good for our evening meal, so the guide walked us down to where it was so we could find it later. She also pointed out an open-air bar called Casa de la Musica where there would be live music and Salsa dancing that evening with an entrance fee of 100CUP.

I had read about the Coppelia ice cream shops being a big thing in Cuba so we had asked previously if there were any we could visit. It wasn’t a Coppelia but there was a lovely privately run ice cream parlour near to where we should have originally been staying so the guide walked us over there. The was a 3-year-old having a birthday treat with a lovely sundae covered in sweetie delights. We had some more normal cups of ice cream but still very nice.

We should have gone to visit the sugar mill, but as it was going to be on our way over to Camaguey the guide suggested we did it then which we agreed to. This allowed us to go and have a bit of pool time at the hotel which we enjoyed. In the evening we took ourselves back down to the town to the tapas restaurant where we sat out on the rooftop. Considering the food limitations they did very well and we ordered cheese platters, prosciutto style ham, a seafood platter, tuna stuffed peppers and patatas bravas.

We then wandered over to the Casa de la Musica and were shown to a table. It took a while for the band to get tuned up but they were very good once they got started. There were a lot of tour groups so we got a few shout outs to anyone here from …. (insert country of choice). Anyone could get up and dance, but those that did so were very good at the Salsa so we chose to just admire them, not knowing a single step of the Salsa. Needless to say, the basket appeared ‘for the band’ but we were happy to put something in as they had been worth it.

Day 7 – Sunday

This was officially a day off but the guide had asked if there was anything we would like to do. She suggested Salsa classes or cocktail making but we had taken a fancy to going to the beach since this side was on the Caribbean. We hadn’t realised quite how far Trinidad was from the beach and the local bus was not to be depended on. She offered the driver to take us there if we would make a contribution which we were happy to do. We went to Peninsula de Ancon, which we discovered was where the guide and the driver were staying. It was a 20-minute drive away and we were fortunate to spot some flamingos on the way. As this was the off season they weren’t charging for the sun loungers, but requested that you buy a drink at the bar. The beach was lovely and the sea was beautifully clear and warm. We had some lovely tuna pasta in tomato sauce at the bar for lunch, the biggest issue was that there were no toilet facilities. (We were invited to use the sea).

In the evening we went to the restaurant Taberna La Botija which our guide has suggested (also in the DK Eyewitness book for good beer). This had a bit of a pirate theme as there had been a lot of issues with them back in the day which is why the old colonial houses had wooden grills at the window. They had tacos and burritos listed on the menu which we fancied but unfortunately these weren’t available so we went for pizza instead – when there is an opportunity to avoid the meat and rice, I recommend taking it. There was a group playing but they were more modern with electric guitars etc which we really enjoyed.

Camaguey

Day 8 – Monday

After a buffet breakfast we headed off towards Camaguey and called at the Valley of the Sugar Mills as we had agreed to do. The Tower of Manaca Iznaga was quite an odd site standing in the middle of  nowhere. You were permitted to climb it which some of our party did, though not everyone went to the top as again the wooden staircase was a bit wobbly. We had a look round the sugar plantation owner’s colonial house and into the grounds where the guide explained about the sugar cane crushing machine. It required 2 slaves to walk round in circles pushing a wooden bar which rotated cogs that crushed the cane to release the juices. Having seen someone use an electric version and the fair amount of effort required to get all the juice out, I could imagine the back breaking work that would be required to do this manually and they would be doing this all day. We were then offered yet another rum based using the sugar cane juice which was quite pleasant.

Back on the bus and we continued on our way. After a while we made a stop at a road side restaurant. There was a bar making speciality juices, so we indulged in those. The restaurant was offering the usual suspects. We continued on and arrived into Camaguey mid-afternoon and checked into our rooms at the Gran Hotel Melia. This building dates back to 1939 and still had a lot of original features. Lots of dark wood which might feel a bit dated by modern tastes. Once we had got settled, we had a walking tour round the town. We had toyed with hiring some of the bike taxis, but unfortunately it started to rain so decided against it. The weather deteriorated quite a bit and there was a bit of thunder and lightning but we braved the elements and nipped out to a restaurant we had seen earlier. It was offering pasta and pizza but as ever the pasta was not available so Pizza again!

Day 9 – Tuesday

Breakfast seemed a bit odd and chaotic. A lot of people had arrived around the same time and the staff were struggling to clear the tables. Breakfast was mostly laid out on a plate with an omelette being brought fresh.

We were supposed to be heading to Santiago de Cuba via Holguin, but the rain had made the roads really muddy so we went via Bayamo instead with a view to going the other way on the return. We made a coffee stop on the way only to find the power had been off and the coffee machine wasn’t yet up to speed. The beer on tap was working so some of the group went for that whilst the rest of us waited for coffee to be available. We stopped at Bayamo for lunch which was included at a nice hotel, with the ever-present rice and meat on offer (tinned fruit cocktail for dessert).  It was raining again so we admired the lovely square from the hotel porch.

We continued on the interesting roads which winded steeply down on the way to the Church of the Virgen de la Caridad. People offer up prayers to her to be healed or for good fortune. Those that have been helped leave their walking sticks etc and there were quite a few baseball shirts and even a 2012 Olympic medal on display. We carried on to our hotel Melia Santiago de Cuba. A curious looking high rise building but with good facilities, though it did appear that only 1 lift was working so the porter took us up to our room in the staff lift. The restaurant La Fontana is part of the hotel and had a mention in my DK Eyewitness book so we decided to give it a go. This is as close to a proper Italian as you’re going to get and they did a pretty good Bolognese. We had a drink in the bar after, but it was a little limited in what it had to offer. It did have something that was similar to Baileys so we went with that.

Santiago de Cuba

Day 10 – Wednesday

We headed into the town and had a quick stop at Revolution Square to take photos. We then went to Moncada Barracks which Castro attacked in an earlier attempt at revolution. We went on to the Castillo del Morro, a proper fort to repel the infamous pirates of the Caribbean. This was a real picture-perfect example of a fortification, and we also spotted some tiny red and black crabs wandering about the place. The views round the bay were fantastic. We headed back into the centre of Santiago to visit the Cathedral. We were supposed to visit the Casa de Diego which is the oldest house in Cuba but it wasn’t open as it had no electricity. The city centre was very oppressive, the humidity felt very intense and there are a high number of motorbike taxis here which created a lot of fumes which were trapped in the narrow streets.

We were supposed to be going into the Sierra Maestra Mountains in some jeeps in the afternoon but due to the wet conditions of the previous days it was deemed unsafe so a compromise trip to a coffee plantation was planned. We went back to the hotel where we were supposed to meet the jeeps but there was some confusion and we went in the bus to the lunch stop. We seemed to be driving into a 70s Russian style estate on the edge of town, but mysteriously a haven of a restaurant appeared at the back with lush planting and cute buildings. The host was very friendly and invited us to help ourselves from the buffet. Whilst it was in essence the same rice and meat and veg it somehow tasted so much better, the meat was moist and tender and the fried banana delicious. It was probably one of the best lunches we had. We were then taken through the process of how to make a ‘proper’ cup of coffee and how to smoke a Cuban cigar.

We then found out that we were not having a trip in a jeep after all (one not very happy tour guide) and headed back to the hotel. They did have a lovely pool in the grounds so we enjoyed a restful afternoon. We went to the rooftop restaurant which actually had quite a good selection. There was yet another power outage, but as ever resolved by the generator. What we didn’t realise was it was another national blackout though it only lasted for a couple of hours. It did give our guide a scare as she was concerned there would be a problem getting diesel which could make it difficult for us to get back across to Havana.

Sancti Spiritus

Day 11 – Thursday

After a buffet breakfast we headed off promptly as today was to be the longest day of the trip. The road to Holguin was still not fit to use so we had to go back the way we came. Disappointing, as we were due to go to Castros birthplace. On the way back we stopped at the same restaurant that had the issues on the way down. This time there was still no electricity so the only thing they could offer was rum (this was a state run restaurant). There was an option for lunch but there was only 1 item available. The guide heard from someone about another private café further up the road so we travelled onto there. They had a much wider variety on the menu and presumably a generator. We ordered fajitas but I should point out in Cuba this is just a meat dish and doesn’t come with wraps. Our guide explained about the fuel issues and that we were only expected to get 20 litres at a time to ensure everyone could get something. Given the distance we were having to go she had managed to persuade the drivers manager into giving him a ticket for 40 litres, so that took some of the pressure off.

We continued on our way towards Sancti Spiritus making a quick toilet stop on the way at a small café. There was no lighting on the way to/in the toilets round the back, so we helped each other with our phone torches. The guide asked us to give our food orders for dinner which she phoned through so that they were ready for us on arrival. It was around 7.30pm when we arrived and we were very glad to get there. The Hostal del Rijo was a lovely old colonial building. The rooms were also surprising with large doorways and period style furniture. We were very ready for dinner and we went with the pasta which was lovely. They had a really good Rioja for $10 so we indulged a bit, well, quite a lot.

Return to Havana

Day 12 – Friday

After breakfast we had a walking tour round Sancti Spiritus. This felt like a much more affluent town and we weren’t approached as much. The buildings in general looked well maintained and it was very pleasant to look round. We were soon back on the road heading towards Santa Clara. This town played an important part in the revolution as Che Guevara derailed a train here. We were able to visit the site before going into town to have the last lunch of the tour. It was a nice venue, with the usual offerings and of course some entertainers. We headed off to the monument to Che Guevara, but couldn’t go into the museum because there was no electricity.

We continued on our way back to Havana and arrived at the Royalton Habana Paseo del Prado early evening. We decided to wander out onto the Paseo del Prado and went into La Macorina. I had a chicken curry which was tasty but very mild with just a hint of curry flavour. We also had a ‘chocolate brownie’ which was basically a cake with a chocolate topping.

Day 13 – Saturday

After breakfast we decided to have a walk down the Malecon since we hadn’t actually driven down it in the classic cars. We got a close up of the contrast of buildings along the waterfront. Some being restored beautifully, others dangerous wrecks. Such a shame as anywhere else these would be premium properties. We walked as far as the Hotel Riviera admiring the sea and the cars before turning round.

We wanted to be back at the hotel so we could check in on line. They have a coffee shop so we sat in there to log in. We wanted to upgrade to get some extra legroom and all was going well but it wouldn’t take the card payment so we had to give up. There is a rooftop swimming pool so we decided to enjoy the last of the good weather and have a relax there.

We weren’t expecting anything to happen on the Saturday night but on arrival back at the hotel the guide advised us that the company wanted to take us on a night out. We were picked up and taken to a venue nearby where dinner was included along with 3 drinks (rum based or coke and water). There was a band playing traditional Cuban music and we were very much encouraged to get up and dance – salsa if you could but most people were just joining in in any way they wanted.

Day 14 – Sunday

Last days are always a bit awkward especially if you’re are not getting picked up till the afternoon. After a late start and breakfast, we checked out of the room. We decided to go for a last wander round the town. We did get harassed a fair bit so ducked down a quieter road and found a park to sit in. We got talking to man who was a musician who had played jazz clubs in London a few years back. He talked to us for some while about how things were in Cuba. He gave us some interesting insights, though you have to be a bit careful as he did seem to have a bit of an agenda. He asked if we had any mosquito repellent for his granddaughter. We had some in our cases so agreed to bring them across to him later on, for which he was most appreciative. In general, if you have any toiletries left at the end of your holiday that you don’t really need, it would be good to give them out to anyone who looks like they could use them. We sat in the bar and chatted for the remainder of the afternoon until we were picked up to go back to the airport.

It’s not the biggest place, and there’s not a lot of amenities. The toilets here also didn’t flush and there was no water or soap at the sink. The duty free was pretty limited, mostly Rum and coffee beans. A lot of people did remark on how good the coffee was so the large bags were popular. Apparently, there are no duty taxes anyway so you might as well buy what you want in any shop you like and put it in your case. There were suggestions that if you have to make a transfer they might get funny about the liquids and take them off you. I did notice in Paris security open someone’s sealed plastic bag and do a swipe test but that was it. Fortunately, the flight was on time and normal service was resumed, with working toilets and familiar food. The transfer worked as well as it did on the way in and we departed back on time to Heathrow.

Take away’s from Cuba

The food may not be exciting, but its perfectly fine, and for us as tourists plentiful.

Whilst you will be badgered a lot, I didn’t feel threatened by it, they just wanted to offer some sort of service in exchange for your lovely Dollars.

Hygiene is not quite the same as it is at home, certainly in terms of public toilets. As a child of the 60s I grew up with public toilets here which were not great and the general attitude of ‘we all eat a pinch of dirt before we die’ so I wasn’t too worried, I just used my hand gel.

Put your Robin Hood hat on and ‘acquire’ the little soaps and shampoos from the room for redistribution to the needy (also accepted by the lady at the toilets). If you have room in your cases you might like to bring some pens or pencils as well. If you have some clothes you’re not worried about bring back they will also be gratefully received.

Bring a small torch, small packs of tissues and a power pack, just in case.

Be prepared for things to go wrong because they will. Go with an open mind and let it all unfold, does it really matter that you didn’t get to a particular museum? The guide will find something else to show you, they are a very resourceful people. We went to see Cuba, rather than anything in particular and we certainly did that.

Despite everything the Cuban people seem to be happy and certainly know how to have a good time. I sometimes think we have got so obsessed with things and appearances we have lost the ability to be content with just being.